Planning

Under Afghanistan

Something akin to the more traditional route: Europe, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan and India.

Turkey

Turkey is a pretty straight-forward country to travel through. All formalities seem to be manageable at the border.

Iran

Everyone suggests that the Iranians are the friendliest people on the planet. The only problem is sorting the paperwork required to get into the country in the first place.

Visa

Brits, Americans and Canadians are singled out for special treatment. We require authorisation from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Tehran which will get us an authorisation number. We are then required to take that authorisation number to the consulate we specified in our application to get the actual visa. There are several companies out there that have a man on the ground in Tehran to aid the process and I used Persian Voyages.

I did attempt to get a visa in 2009 but was rejected. No reason given. Although, to be fair, I was obliged to apply in the middle of the demonstrations over the Iranian presidential elections where the British were being accused of inciting trouble. Poor timing.

Carnet

The Iranians insist on a proper carnet (as opposed to a temporary one).

Issues

There are problems with the Baluchistanis in the south east of the country (near the border with Pakistan). It seems to be almost certain I'll get a police escort as I get near the border.

Pakistan

Visa

There have been various stories of success on the road but it looks like a visa is required to be arranged in your country of residence (ie. before you go).

You have the usual problem of trying to second guess the authorities with the hotels you will be staying in. As ever, they're not geared up for independent travel.

Carnet

The Pakistanis insist on a proper carnet.

Issues

In a rapidly changing situation...

It used to be that the only problems in Pakistan were the Baluchistanis near the border with Iran and the ever present troubles in the tribal regions of the North West Frontier Province. However, these days trouble has spread from Afghanistan. The police escort from the border with Iran might take me all the way up to Quetta (halfway up the country).

That's an especial bore as one place I do want to visit is the Makran Coast (on the Indian Ocean). That's be like arriving at Southampton and being police escorted to Newcastle (and taking two days to do it) when you want to go and see Cornwall.

India

Visa

It's all online now (with an extra processing fee) but it looks reasonably straight-forward even asking for multiple entry.

One odd thing is that you can't come back in again on another tourist visa for two months.

Carnet

The Indians want a proper carnet

Issues

Other than the perennial threat of nuclear annihilation with the Pakistanis it seems to be pretty relaxed.

Unless you want to go to the border with Myanmar.

Nepal

I think Nepal can be managed on the border

Bhutan

Bhutan doesn't want to be over-whelmed with tourists so sets a minimum $200 per night tour fee (all inclusive, mind) to keep the numbers down. It can be done, though, so it might be worth a few bucks while I'm in the neighbourhood.

I understand they're quite happy with bikes too.

Bangladesh

It looks like it has to be arranged in your home country and you must identify the hotel you'll be staying in.

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