That's pretty much it. I took five days to amble back up through the countryside of Spain and France which was altogether more enjoyable than the three and a half day charge down. The real problem was Europe costs EUR100/day (food, lodging and fuel). Morocco wasn't that cheap, maybe EUR60/day.

The bike looks like this

Early on I lost a bolt for one of the handguards, one of the spacer/pin combos for the front plastics and my tax disc (not necessarily at the same time).

Later on I thought the rear brake was a bit loose so had a look to find that the top bolt holding the assembly on was missing and the bottom bolt had a turn or two left before it too would have been lost in Morocco. I didn't have any spares either!

Most annoyingly, from the rear photo you can see the nearside chain adjuster plate and (obviously) both nuts have gone. I didn't check the work of the guy who swapped the tyres over. The first time the job was fine (it had survived a number of crashes after all) but the second time it got overlooked. The locknut on the right has gone too!

But that's it, arguably my fault for not checking everything (often enough). The panniers still have some Moroccan rock embedded in them so they worked well. The bash plate sang some expressive songs when big rocks hit it and has at least one hefty dink. The handguards earned their money avoiding busted levers.

Lessons learned?

• If you're going somewhere vaguely Westernised (as Morocco is). Don't take any luggage! It's not easy to find circular routes over the pistes and luggage wears you down.
• Don't take the long route through France and Spain. You could go on your nobblies (and avoid carting a spare set of tyres with you) or you could just get the ferry to northern Spain and be done with it.
• JFDI! Just F'ing Do It! I was a complete noob and not much better now but I've been out there on my tod and had an adventure. I was way out of my comfort zone on at least two occasions and I was knackered and I was crapping myself. But you're only knackered and crapping yourself for a couple of hours and then you're telling tall tales of derring do! ("Hey, I've ridden the R704 with full luggage!") Other than than it's just roads like anywhere else and people who are interested in what you, a stranger, are doing.

I've sort of flooded this thread with pictures which I know are a pain to have to wait to load but I always like to see what other places are like. Hopefully you've got an idea of what central and central southern Morocco looks like which might pique your interest.

I've loads of crappy detailed stuff which I can pass on if anyone's interested (prices, tracks, a .kmz for all the photos).